I'm having an affair......

.....and Ron is supposed to be jealous, but just seems to be agreeable.

My new paramour, Ken More, and I have been spending some intimate time together, truly getting to know one another.  Even sharing mutual libations.....like WD40, and vodka.  Ron stands by, and even offers encouragement (he must be getting his ideas from surfing the porn sites).  What loving and better 1/2 does that?!  But yes, as I've mentioned, we are a boat of men, and then there's me.  Who am I to quibble?  After all, I recently had ANOTHER birthday, and I'm all about getting it while I can. 

But I digress.....

Ken and I have had a good run, but I think I'm ready to move on.  As any good "friend with benefits", I'm keeping him in my back pocket, "just in case".  But it was fun while it lasted......

I'm sure you all know I'm talking about sewing projects.  

New cushions for the dock boxes, (apparently Ron's nether regions were going numb) and new canvas for the deck chairs (Tommy Bahamas needs to learn about Sunbrella).  But the most fun.....I have been talking about making the "25 knot rain and squall wind scoop" since the day I saw the plans in a canvas book many, many months ago.  Right....done.....let 'er rip.   

Panama City Projects

After the last post, we've taken stock of our boat and determined that there were a few things that we had been talking about doing to improve our "look and livability."  Now that we were finally in a location that had decent quality materials, it was time to get to work and for me to get out my sewing machine. 

Sewing machines......you either love the one you have or hate it.  The Kenmore that currently resides on Sundancer was my 16th birthday present - yikes, it's been around almost as long as I have but it seems to be holding up better than I am.  While I require massive doses of red wine to keep my gears lubricated, in the 36 years I've owned this machine, I have yet to apply any oil.  Consider this an endorsement for the mighty Kenmore, and the quality of the products that come from Sears. 

Two years ago, when we were in La Paz, Mexico, I was looking around for a sewing machine to keep on the boat.  I had heard good things about the Pfaff 130, and had heard that it was capable of punching through several layers of canvas and sunbrella.  Another boat was selling theirs (I now know that those people had an evil sense of humour) so I snapped it up. I earned my sailors' stripes tackling that beast, and impressed Ron with my use of both known and unknown sea curses, invoking the wrath of Neptune to strike the Pfaff or me down.....may the best machine/woman win.  Suffice it to say that only my mennonite upbringing and a waste not, want not attitude prevented me from designating that Pfaff as the newest addition to our anchor selection.  It went back to San Diego and will hopefully soon be picked up by some unsuspecting Craig's List shopper, and was replaced with the steady friend I call Ken.  We are a boat of boys, and me.  Ron (Quire), the captain, John (Deere) the engine, Ray (Marine) the chartplotter and radar, and Ken (More) the sewing machine.  A boat is only big enough for one woman, but can hold a multitude of men.

Back to the projects.....I was getting pretty antsy to make a move, and had begun haranguing Ron for a new adventure; reading my 737th book didn't appeal any longer.  We found a shop selling authentic Sunbrella fabric, for similar prices to the states (the same fabric in Canada would have been $36/yard) at $19/yard, along with a reasonable selection of design and colour choices.  I was in business! 

First order was new covers for our cockpit cushions.  The perfect cushions came with the boat (thanks, Tim and Sandy) but as they were covered in vinyl, were sticky to our sweaty skin.  I was always hauling up sarongs to use to sit on, but felt a better solution was in order. 

 

Of course, along with those covers there needed to be something to rest our heads on during those long midnight watches.  So.....

Our dinghy also needed some work.  While we were in El Salvador, we had a set of dinghy chaps made, but it was constructed out of fake "sombrella", so while it was very perky when new, within months the bright red had faded to pink.  Although I still need to replace those bits, I did make a new cushion/preserver for it, and the dinghy wheels got a protective cover to protect the rubber from the effects of the harsh sun.  Looks like a shower cap, doesn't it?

Last but not least on the sewing hit parade were hatch covers.  The old ones were recycled into the dinghy wheel covers, but now we've got some nice new ones helping to keep the boat a bit cooler, and to help preserve the varnish on the wood hatch trim.

We have a rule on our boat, when one of us works, so does the other.  While I was busy bonding with Ken, Ron was channeling his inner marlin spiker by making a few new rugs to keep our cushions and companionway clean.  

I've still got a few more things that needs to be made.  New covers for our deck chairs, the dinghy chaps, covers for the jerry jugs and windlass, and a sacrificial bag for our bicycles.  Also, and perhaps one of the most important items, will be a new windscoop for our forward hatch, designed to be left up even during a rain storm (and those storms will be on us before we know it) which will enable the wind to still come in, but will keep out the rain.  Once completed, I'll post a few more pics.  

You see, it's not all turquoise seas and deserted beaches......sometimes we also have to work. 

What's our draft again?

So it was interesting.   I had just told our guests to leave because they weighed too much.  I wondered, with my inside voice, how I would react should some hostess of mine make such a comment, but for the moment, I wanted all 6 of them to vacate the decks and go home to their own boats.   Lest you come to the wrong conclusion that I was an absolute bitch, there were circumstances which led up to the moment.   Namely, tides.

Here in Panama, to know at what point you are in the tide clock, and what your high, and most importantly, your low, point is, is fairly critical.  Many people coming through the canal from the Caribbean side to the Pacific, have to adjust their thinking straightaway, as the tides on that side are fairly benign.  We thought we had it right, figuring in the 6-8’ mark, but nope, we didn’t.  I blame it on the men.  They are always overestimating size (yes, THAT’S what I’m referring to) so in this instance I figured that if they were all anticipating an average 7 foot tide, then we were safe at allocating 6 feet, or even less.  Of course in this one instance I was proved wrong (first time this year).  

Along with 3 other boats; Rio Nimpkish, Gosling and Iris, Ron and I, with our friends Sam and Nancy Cockrell aboard, had planned a mini expedition up the Rio Sabana, located in the Darien Province.  This region of Panama, to the southeast and bordering Columbia, is known to be the wildest and least explored of the country.  Indigenous peoples are still living within the untouched jungle, as they have done for centuries, and over 900 bird species have been recorded there.  Seven major rivers, and untold tributaries and estuaries spread out from the Gulf of San Miguel, some 70 miles southeast of Panama City, and offer an opportunity to get off the beaten track.  Several days earlier, we had explored the Rio Sucio (Dirty River) and were now in search of a village that was known to produce beautiful native baskets, some commanding pretty impressive prices in the tourist stores in the city.  In an artisan’s shop in La Palma, the Darien’s provincial seat, we had been told that the baskets she was selling were from a pueblo called Boca de Lara, or Puerto Lara, so we thought it might be fun to go to the source.  

Isn't the orange part land?!

Meandering up the river, we spotted crocodiles, Toucans, some sort of Parrot, and heard lots of Howler Monkeys.  We really wanted to see a Harpy Eagle, the purported largest of the raptors (up for debate) but as they don’t make any noise when away from the nest, we weren’t hopeful.   Although initially quite wide, after 15 miles the river narrowed down to a few boat lengths across, and after passing a few thin spots, we decided to anchor in 8 feet of water (Sundancer draws 5.5 feet). 

Exploring with friends

But still no mosquitoes!

The village was just around the next bend, according to the kids that came out in their cayucas to greet us. Everyone tumbled into their dinghies for the 5 minute journey to Puerto Lara, and the awaiting baskets.  

Marketplace, Darien-style

Great quality

Unique Designs

Is that thing alive?!

Hard at work

Only Harpy we saw, but it's now onboard

Living on the banks of the Rio Sabana

So….back to my rude behavior.  After our successful venture into town, appies and cocktails were offered aboard Sundancer.  Things were going swimmingly, until……they weren’t.  We needed to raise the waterline, and without horses aboard, people were thrown off. 

Everyone OFF

Apparently, we were actually the boat with the least amount of issues.  Two of the others got back home, to discover up to a 30 degree heel.  Sailing is FUN!!!

At one point, I saw the depth gauge read -1.1 feet, but I didn’t have the heart to take another picture.   It was determined that the next low tide was going to be another foot lower, so we needed to make a break for it, once the tide switched enough for everyone to start floating again.  Unfortunately, that meant a midnight-thirty departure.  Good thing we dropped breadcrumbs on our way in, as someone had neglected to turn the street lights on. 

Fun and Games

One of the benefits of bypassing the “if it’s Tuesday, it must be Nicaragua” routine, is that those cruiser’s that take their time, can become a part of a vibrant local social scene.   We’ve been in some fairly rural and unsophisticated communities, and even countries, but Panama is proving to be pretty entertaining.  Of course, it’s reputation of being the most “enlightened” of the Central American cities is aided by a pretty good economy (thank you Panama Canal, and foreign investment), and a burgeoning restoration effort of some of its oldest colonial neighborhoods (Casco Viejo).  

We’ve just been having fun here, and while every once in a while I scare Ron with comments of “I could start a pretty good business here”, or “what do you think of renovating this falling down hunk of history, and selling at a profit?”  Opportunities abound for all of you that are looking for a challenge, with both monetary and emotional benefit. 

 

For the rest, here’s a brief look at some of the activities we’ve taken part in.

With our partners in crime, the able Admiral and Captain of Knee Deep, Molly and Ben Dolittle respectively, we found ourselves at the International Beer Festival, held downtown in the Atlapa Convention Center.  It was a good thing we thought to bring our radios because the boys kept losing track of each other.  Can you believe that they’ve been able to navigate the last 5000 miles of ocean?

Can you hear me?

Coming in loud and clear

Signal strength is good?

Ya, I gotcha

Don't know why you can't hear me?

You must be close

Eureka!!!

Being the good pirates that we are, the Bucanero booth was very popular....

And it was downhill from there......

One Saturday, we had excellent front row seats in the La Playita anchorage in Panama City.  Apparently, the organizers thought Sundancer would be an excellent mark to round during their cayuca race.  While not wishing to break our 3 year streak of no exercise, we declined to join in, but we did cheer them on.  

 

Super Bowl Sunday dawned bright, with runner after runner competing in the Panama leg of the Ironman.  Their course took them along the Amador Causeway, fronting the route into the Canal and within 100 yards of where we were anchored, but our thoughts were instead turning towards GAME DAY, and with any luck we’d have an American cable feed in order to really experience the highlights…..those $1 million commercials.  More fun and frivolity with Knee Deep crew, but Mickey and JP weren’t too impressed with what the 49ers brought to the table. 

Molly was hoping that some of her friends would show up

And then they did!!!!!

The night ended with our group trying to rival the Keystone Cops….”how many idiots can you fit into a taxi?”  We negotiated HARD, got the driver down to $4, and then 5 large adults, and 2 small kids (not including the driver) piled into a car the size of a Toyota Corolla.   

What happens in Panama….....stays in Panama.