Saturday, November 30, 2013

The Sacred Valley and its Sacred Bebida, not Buddha


As you can see, my Spanish is coming along nicely.  If not 100% grammatically correct, we at least can make ourselves understood, and we can now even go into a bar to hang with the locals. 
Perhaps my example of a bar is a bit of a stretch, but “when in Rome…..” or maybe it should be “when in Peru…..” 

So here are the “back of the bar, liquor supplies”….


And here is the bartender…


 The other patrons and their drink of choice.  Just another pick-up joint…. 


And Ron with his first glass of chicha.



This was a chicha house.  A few select women in the villages around Peru, are the designated chicha brewers.  I’ll leave you to do your own research as to technique, but suffice it to say that this is corn beer, and takes 3 days from production to glass.  When a batch is ready for quaffing, the brew meister will put a bright red plastic bag on a long pole, extending from the house into the street (in the past, it was a bunch of bright red flowers) to let passersby know that the chicha is ready and on tap.  We sat there with the woman and man of the house for a few glasses, and they proceeded to laugh hysterically at us (or WITH us, as I’d prefer to think of it).  Ron has declared that he’s not giving up his farourite pilsner in exchange for chicha – he thought it was reminiscent of drinking out of a silo.  The photo above was taken BEFORE the first sip – see that smile still on his face?  Me, well, I mustered up the good manners to finish off a glass without making too much of a face (or maybe that’s why they were laughing so much).

Friday, November 29, 2013

My blog has a mind of it's OWN - whaaaaaaaa

I'm anal, I admit it, but I'm giving up.  The blog post below is all wonky, with big gaps, terrible design, etc., etc.  I have now spent 4 hours trying to fix it.  I'm done.

I go back to my earlier assertion - this is like work.  I remember being this frustrated "back in the day", but now I don't have to do that anymore, so I'm not going to. 

With any luck, the next posting will look better.  Sorry folks. 

We've arrived at the Handle

So the bucket list item we’ve come to visit here in Peru, is Machu Picchu.  Arriving in Cuzco is essentially like grabbing hold of the handle of that bucket.  As far as we were concerned, Cuzco and the Sacred Valley should be considered the whole bucket….there is so much to see and do.

Cuzco Plaza de Armas
If altitude is not your thing, then you may want to give this a miss.  If you are game, then a “take it easy” kind of attitude early on will help you to enjoy your stay.  The city is located at 3,400 m (11,200 ft), and the air is a bit “refined”.  As the city is also very steep, it’s a perfect storm of conditions for travelers on foot who consider themselves fit.  Coming from San Diego, (the folks) and Ron and I from the ocean (it too is at sea level – hahahaha) we either needed to reason with the altitude, or it was going to flat out kill us all.   When we were dropped off at the top of the sidewalk and needed to navigate the steps STRAIGHT DOWN to the front door of our hostel, we all took several very deep breaths, and squared our shoulders.  Troopers, everyone!
I’ll get to the “must-see” sites in a bit, but we had some pretty good eating while we were in Cuzco.  Because it’s the entry-point to the most interesting Inca and Pre-Inca ruins around, international folks are everywhere, and as such the dining opportunities are fantastic.  Ron and I wouldn’t call South American cuisine our favourite, but the folks at Fuego, a burger joint just off the main square was like hearing a siren song of North American food.  Burgers, no make that BURGERS and ONION RINGS, were amazing.  Note the ever-present Pisco Sour.  

Burgers for EVERYONE
Now those are ONION RINGS
Everyone capitalizes on the altitude thing….


It’s not too often you show up in a city and say, “let’s go look at building materials”, but everyone who knows anything about the Inca and their building techniques (thank those Ancient Aliens again), know that they were renowned for puzzle-piecing massive rocks perfectly into position.  800 years later, bone rattling earthquakes and freezing temps notwithstanding, you can see that they still fit.  And all without mortar!  It baffles everyone that sees them, and this rock is the most famous of all, with 12 sides perfectly matched to its neighbors – not possible to slip even a piece of paper in the joints.  It was a treasure hunt to find its location, on a smallish side alleyway.  We were instructed by the modern-day Inca warrior standing guard not to touch the thing.  
Not touching the 12-sided rock
Rather than take a tour, I was determined, despite the altitude, for us all to walk from site to site.  We took a taxi to highest location (at 3700m) and furthest from town, and were able to walk downhill, visiting sites along the way. 

First stop…Tambo Machay.

Highest to date
Outdoor Incan Shower
Peruvian Friends
A short walk away, we hit Pukapukara.  Meaning Red Fort, used for hunting parties and travelers, it has fantastic views overlooking the valley.

Strategic Location
Q’enqo was reached via a wander through the fields of grazing llama and alpaca, and came complete with rock etchings and the obligatory sacrificial alter. 

Q'enqo
Q'enqo Cutouts
Meaning “Satisfied Falcon”, Saqsaywam√°n’s pronunciation can be remembered by the mnemonic “sexy woman”.  For us, it was the highlight of the day.  For those traveling in our wake, this is a place that can easily take an entire day to explore.  The main site, shown below, is only a small portion that most visitors see, as littered throughout the hillsides are additional evidence of the enormity of the past Inca empire in the area.   

Saqsaywaman Approach
We have hundreds of photos, but here are a few notables. 

Incan Zig Zag























Pyramid Doorway to the sky
Ron holding up HIS wall
Taking a break
The next day we were off to Pisac.  The locals kept telling us that it was “better” than Machu Picchu.  We’d be the judge of that!
Spectacular!
Tunnel to the other side
Pisac Panorama
On the blustery edge
No wonder they chewed so much coca
Precision Joinery

Monday, November 25, 2013

Bugs, Bones and Bah Humbug


In every trip, there are bound to be a few glitches.  Sometimes the things you anticipate seeing the most…..well, suffice it to say that sometimes you don’t see those things.  Take Nazca for example.  

Every trip to Peru, if it is going to feature the highlights, will include a trip to Nazca to see the famous lines.  We had all watched the documentaries, we had done the research, we had committed to paying; the LINES were going to be another tick on our bucket list.  Of course, Mother Nature is a fickle woman and every so often she makes sure that we all remember who is REALLY in charge (besides the Admiral).  Having owned a small plane in the past, I’m well aware that visibility is critical to flying without instruments, and if we were going to see anything the visibility needed to justify going up. 
 
We arrived at the airport at 8am, and proceeded to wait.  

Patiently waiting

Apparently, the visibility was crap the day before, so all those people that had signed up then were now hogging our air time.  After hounding the flight desk, (after all, as tour leader “Marge in Charge”, it was my responsibility to do what I could to get us up in the air), we were finally given the go ahead at 11am.  

NOW I'm ready to go
All systems GO!
And......NOT gonna happen

This monkey drawn in the sidewalk at our hotel in Paracas, and holding our precious Pisco Sours, was the closest we got to see the lines, as seconds after the shot above was taken the airport was shut down and we were out of luck. You can only do what you can do.


All was not lost.  We had a full afternoon of touring to do, which of course included bones.  Chaucilla Cemetery was not really a “must do”, but as we had started the trip with bones and skulls, it seems fitting to return to the theme.  As you can see from the landscape, it’s brown, and windy.  We braved the dust and saw lots of mummies, skeletons, skulls, and bones.  The upright, seated pose is the preferred burial position, taking up less space.  

Not sure I'd like this location as my final resting place

Archaeology or Tomb Robbing?
Mummy Condos
Mummy Dreads
A tour to the still working aqueducts demonstrated how serious the Inca were about water.  In the center is running water, coming from……somewhere, and connecting to the rest of the aqueducts all in a row in the middle of this field.  Given the landscape we had seen so far, we could understand why.

Ancient Aqueducts

A unique crop that we saw all over Central and South America – it’s not the cactus, it’s the bugs ON the cactus.  Cochineal is an insect that is used to make red dye for food colorants and the carmine used by painters around the world.  The farmers scrape the leaves 3 times in a year, and then they need to replant as the cactus is all “used up.” 

Cactus Field
Healthy Crop of Bugs