So the bucket list item we’ve come to visit here in Peru, is
Machu Picchu.
Arriving in Cuzco is
essentially like grabbing hold of the handle of that bucket.
As far as we were concerned, Cuzco and the
Sacred Valley should be considered the whole bucket….there is so much to see
and do.
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Cuzco Plaza de Armas |
If altitude is not your thing, then you may want to give
this a miss.
If you are game, then a
“take it easy” kind of attitude early on will help you to enjoy your stay.
The city is located at 3,400 m (11,200
ft), and the air is a bit “refined”.
As
the city is also very steep, it’s a perfect storm of conditions for travelers
on foot who consider themselves fit.
Coming from San Diego, (the folks) and Ron and I from the ocean (it too
is at sea level – hahahaha) we either needed to reason with the altitude, or it
was going to flat out kill us all.
When
we were dropped off at the top of the sidewalk and needed to navigate the steps
STRAIGHT DOWN to the front door of our hostel, we all took several very deep
breaths, and squared our shoulders.
Troopers, everyone!
I’ll get to the “must-see” sites in a bit, but we had some
pretty good eating while we were in Cuzco.
Because it’s the entry-point to the most interesting Inca and Pre-Inca
ruins around, international folks are everywhere, and as such the dining
opportunities are fantastic.
Ron and I
wouldn’t call South American cuisine our favourite, but the folks at Fuego, a
burger joint just off the main square was like hearing a siren song of North
American food.
Burgers, no make that BURGERS
and ONION RINGS, were amazing.
Note the
ever-present Pisco Sour.
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Burgers for EVERYONE |
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Now those are ONION RINGS |
Everyone capitalizes on the altitude thing….
It’s not too often you show up in a city and say, “let’s go
look at building materials”, but everyone who knows anything about the Inca and
their building techniques (thank those Ancient Aliens again), know that they
were renowned for puzzle-piecing massive rocks perfectly into position. 800 years later, bone rattling earthquakes
and freezing temps notwithstanding, you can see that they still fit. And all without mortar! It baffles everyone that sees them, and this
rock is the most famous of all, with 12 sides perfectly matched to its
neighbors – not possible to slip even a piece of paper in the joints. It was a treasure hunt to find its location,
on a smallish side alleyway. We were
instructed by the modern-day Inca warrior standing guard not to touch the
thing.
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Not touching the 12-sided rock |
Rather than take a tour, I was determined, despite the
altitude, for us all to walk from site to site.
We took a taxi to highest location (at 3700m) and furthest from town,
and were able to walk downhill, visiting sites along the way.
First stop…Tambo Machay.
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Highest to date |
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Outdoor Incan Shower |
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Peruvian Friends |
A short walk away, we hit Pukapukara.
Meaning Red Fort, used for hunting parties
and travelers, it has fantastic views overlooking the valley.
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Strategic Location |
Q’enqo was reached via a wander through the fields of
grazing llama and alpaca, and came complete with rock etchings and the
obligatory sacrificial alter.
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Q'enqo |
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Q'enqo Cutouts |
Meaning “Satisfied Falcon”, Saqsaywamán’s pronunciation can
be remembered by the mnemonic “sexy woman”.
For us, it was the highlight of the day.
For those traveling in our wake, this is a place that can easily take an
entire day to explore.
The main site,
shown below, is only a small portion that most visitors see, as littered throughout
the hillsides are additional evidence of the enormity of the past Inca empire
in the area.
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Saqsaywaman Approach |
We have hundreds of photos, but here are a few
notables.
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Incan Zig Zag |
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Pyramid Doorway to the sky |
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Ron holding up HIS wall |
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Taking a break |
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The next day we were off to Pisac. The locals kept telling us that it was
“better” than Machu Picchu. We’d be the
judge of that!
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Spectacular! |
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Tunnel to the other side |
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Pisac Panorama |
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On the blustery edge |
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No wonder they chewed so much coca |
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Precision Joinery |
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