Last Monday was an excellent start to the day. We had finished our provisioning, and were ready to hit the high seas. We picked up 2, 6 gallon jerry jugs filled
with booze (one of Jack Daniels and one of Ron Abuelo) from Jane and Ean from
More Joy Everywhere (long story but we
got the benefit of their purchasing and efforts) and dropped off “marina jewelry” (dock
wristbands – those of you that know, will know). We then set the sails for the southwest and
with any luck, the sighting of the Ecuadorian coastline in about a week and ½. Sigh, it was not to be.
Can we get more wine, please? |
Seems we're going to be gone a long time - at least a week |
That's not water in there |
The first 24 hours was uneventful, and we made good time
riding the south flowing current down the western coast of the Bay of Panama,
averaging about 6 knots, and made Punta Mala in decent time. Let out a little whoop-whoop when we crossed
our ill-fated track from 6 months ago, arriving to Panama Bay. The windicator we had tried to fix the week
before was intermittent with information, but we could deal with it, as we had
lots of telltales on the sails and shrouds to at least give us wind
direction.
With words of wisdom from
Terry on Oh, Baby! we kept tacking
through the southwest setting wind and swell, heading either west or south, and
while it was slow going, it at least was going.
So of course something has to happen (this is the short version).
The stitching on our outhaul clew board gives up the ghost, and we are
left with a flapping main sail. Oh,
well, we’re a ketch, and we’ve probably sailed 50% of our time without our
main, so no tragedy. Another 24 hours
passes, and Ron notices that we’ve got some horizontal wrinkles in our
jib. Mmmmm. The loop for the halyard had ripped right through. Gulp.
The mantra begins….we are a ketch, we’ve still got 2 more sails to use,
and we’ve got an excellent John Deere engine.
Now by this time, the benign weather had changed. We were in 35 knots of wind, and 10 foot
breaking waves. These waves were coming
at us directly from the dreaded southwest direction, our "go to direction" and as such we even had
them coming over the bow AND over the pilothouse. We’re not sailing in Mexico anymore, Dorothy!!!
So of course something ELSE has to happen. The autopilot chooses this moment to say, “nope,
not gonna play.” We were about 50
miles away from our first waypoint of Isla Malpelo, after a hard won 2 and ½ days. NO AUTOPILOT?!?! (After not being able to find my boat in a
dark anchorage after a night on the town drinking, it is my worst nightmare to
not have an autopilot) After about a
minute of discussion, we decided the prudent thing to do would be to head back
to Panama City, and get ourselves sorted out.
So now the fun REALLY begins….
30 HOURS OF HANDSTEERING, 10 FOOT FOLLOWING BREAKING WAVES, 20
KNOT WINDS, CRAPPY WEATHER.
Notice the Pigpen like squall surrounding our boat |
Yup, it's raining AGAIN |
The sailors out there
reading this, yes, it was as bad as it sounds.
With our trusty 3rd crew member declining to participate, it
was a 1 hour on, 1 hour off schedule.
Upon arrival back in the Bay, the seas set down enough to be able to recalibrate our autopilot. It took, thank god, but we were still committed to heading back.
All told, our little burn around the Bay of Panama took 5
days, and cost about $500 in diesel.
Yay!!!
Good friends treated our arrival appropriately. "We’re sorry you’re back, but great to see you." Last night, Mike on Hartley said, “I hoped to never see you again.” So funny, but only sailors would see that this was not a slam, but just a part of the life. Because you see, he took off 2 days after we did, and also returned with the same blown out clew on his mainsail. Weird!
Our autopilot is operational again, and a new spare “brain”
has been ordered. A new skookum Garmin
windicator/gps/barometer/thingymabob has also been ordered. The sails are getting picked up today for
repairs (I tried yesterday on the machine that our friends Matthew and Jill on
Rock and Roll Star have but the thickness was too much – oh, for a Sailrite
onboard!) Ean from More Joy will hand
deliver our new gear, plus a new starter motor that Ron had ordered months ago
for the generator, when he returns to Panama on the 10th. Until then, we eat, drink and attempt to be
merry.
Meanwhile……the lightning continues.
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