Isabela Update

After our penguin sighting of yesterday morning, we figured we were ready for more exploring. We set off on long walk (okay, it only felt long due to the heat but in reality, we think it was about 5 kms roundtrip) to go to the Centro de Crianza, the Tortoise Breeding Center here on Isabela. There is a wonderful boardwalk that winds past a few pozos (new Spanish word - pools) and through the arid landscape (Ron had read somewhere that not a few people have wandered away, and have gotten lost. They then ended up dead.) This place is covered in hardened lava flows, and the island has no natural water sources, other than what falls during the rainy season. So it was a surprise that we saw these pools and came across the most beautiful coral coloured flamingos.

Another 10 minutes later, and we came to the breeding center. Suffice it to say that we think there is no danger of extinction of the 5 species of Galapagos Tortoises. We must have seen several hundred (maybe more), in all ages, which according to the literature all came from 4 sets of breeding adults. Looked pretty prolific to us.

Back to the beach where we stumbled, almost literally, across another 25,000 +/- marine iguanas, also in various shapes and sizes. There were some big papas roaming around, keeping an eye on the myriad offspring. They were all piled up, and didn't seem to care who's shoulders they stepped on on their way to the top of the heap. Sounds like most of the western world - we have not evolved very far from the our ancestors, the iguanas.

This is the high season here, and although everyone around the world knows about the Galapagos Islands, this place was empty. Not a soul around, which suits us perfectly, but it seems crazy that as well known as these islands are, so far we've seen only 4 boats here in the three days since arrival, with a total of perhaps 40 people. We'd read that the authorities, by the number of flights they allow to land on Baltra and Cristobal can control the number of visitors, and we frankly feel the numbers are just right. We haven't been to the most populated island, Santa Cruz, but as the vast majority of the boats depart from there, we figure it is probably the most lively. For us here, this Darwinian peace is perfect.

We have some hysterical pictures of the wildlife - unfortunately, until we get our internet signal sorted, you'll have to settle for these words.....or start your travel plans, and come out here to see it all for yourself.

Total costs so far, other than our initial $1085 Autografo, (not per person)

San Cristobal (arrived 1/1/15, departed 1/16/15)
Tour to Leon Dormido - $84
Taxi tour of the island - $30
Various fruits/vegies - ~$100
Top up of 17 gallons diesel - $54
Departure Zarpe - $15
Water taxi during stay - ~$30
One dinner out - $30
Various beers/water - ~$20
Total - ~$363

Living in a natural zoo

The common perception, which is a MISperception, is that although you've paid the money to be here in the Galapagos, this is only the start of the bloodletting.  Many websites and blogs that we had read, informed us that if we wanted to see anything, not only did we have to have the $100 park pass in hand, but we also had to pay for an "official" guide, which of course, would eat up some more pennies.  We've paid the big bucks already to be here, so we're scouting out what we can do without having to pay additionally.

Our walks to the various snorkeling spots had paid off in the form of new marine life spotted, but we were now ready to spread our wings abit and see the rest of the island.  Yesterday, along with another boat that had joined us having also recently arrived from the mainland, and another random traveling couple, we piled into a taxi truck to head north to the La Galapaguera, which was a breeding and protectionist habitat of those wily Galapagos Tortoises.   The money saved was in the form of not going via a tour agency in town, but basically just a random taxi driver that had been living on San Cristobal all his life, therefore he knew a thing or two about those turtles.

First off, we headed to a lake called La Junca, which is a caldera lake, and serves the entire island with fresh water.  As strange as it may seem, this area is almost constantly shrouded in fog, and as such, photos opportunities were limited.  In a burst of silliness, as we all knew we'd be traveling around in a taxi, all 6 of us were shod in flip flops.  The hike up to the lake, had us all slipping and sliding, struggling to keep upright while trekking in the mud and misty grass.  In between banks of fog, we were able to just glimpse the water's edge, but only if you tried to focus on it.  Take your eyes away, and the lake disappeared again.  Apparently, this is fairly typical, even during the dry season.

Off we went to visit the Galapaguera.  In its heyday, there were upwards of 100,000 of these prehistoric-looking beasts lumbering around, but then as is typical, the Europeans arrived, and made off with countless turtle steaks deep in their holds.  Another wave of folks from Guayaquil also decided in the mid-1900s that the oil derived from said turtles, would make an excellent fuel for street lights in their town.  And so the numbers declined further.  I'm not sure who figured out that these guys made for good press, but someone must have seen that people paying over a bunch of years to take photos, might be good publicity for the islands, and for Ecuador in general.  So we bought into the program, and got our requisite pictures. 

Is this my best side.....

Even the tortoise world has conflicts

....or is this?

His knees look like mine feel after a lifetime of snow skiing

Photo evidence - "we were here"

 The Center also has a very successful breeding program - 60% of the eggs now hatch, as opposed to a 20% success rate in the wild.

Babies everywhere - these were 1 month old

After seeing the turtles, we headed off to Puerto Chino, the location of the finest sand on San Cristobal.  It was like talc, and from a high cliff overlooking the water, we saw massive marine turtles swimming, too.

So the grand total of our tour cost us $15/person, and that included a tip for our driver.  Combined with the fact that the day lasted for 6 hours, I'd say that was money well spent.  

Yup, our life in the zoo, and it costs about the same as the one in San Diego!